On a separate note, sandpaper grade P180 is a safe option for prepping latex paints. Of course, you will have to refinish the wood per the original method. P180 Sandpaper – If you encounter a raised wood grain fiber, P180 has your solution. The only exception would be a clear satin finish, in which case you may want to eliminate any scratches left on the wood with P150 or P180. Lastly, enamel paints and polyurethane don’t require the wood to be sanded beyond P120. We generally use this grit when first smoothing pine, redwood, & cedar. P120 Sandpaper – Any wood that was too soft for P80 will start the latter at P120. In the case that you’re working with a hardwood like Poplar, you can probably jump the line to P120. P80 grit is the best option for removing saw blade burns and deeper surface scratches. P80 Sandpaper – This is the starting grit for most hardwoods and is a staple for every wood worker. Also, they can remove almost anything so don’t hesitate to jump up to the next grit. Essentially, you’ll use these to soften anything that’s too rough for your hands to handle. They’re only required for cleaning up rough lumber, evening out large bumps in the wood, & removing stubborn old paints. Grit Levels P40 & P60 – Most projects won’t need these sandpaper grades. It’s also the international standard for denoting the coarseness of an abrasive. Applications for Each Grit LevelĪs you’ve already notices, we opted for the “P” grade system since that is largely what we use in our projects. Also, it’s worth mentioning that P240 is a bit too fine for wood stain and will hinder it ability to soak into the wood. However, the better option is actually P180 as it gives the wood grain a stronger appearance. For instance, a craftsman looking to stain a wood piece might view P240 as a suitable replacement for P220. That is, some substitutions are less intuitive than others. Just be sure to do further research to make sure that you don’t select the wrong one. You can substitute a similar grit level depending on the application. In the event that you don’t have every sheet listed on our sandpaper grit chart, that’s not the end of the world. Since every grit level serves a specific purpose in our workshop, we want to share that information so you can avoid wasting time (& money) on the wrong sandpaper. We grabbed every piece of sandpaper from our tool bag (except P150, sorry P150) and scribbled down the most common uses for each one. But now, those days are over-provided you see our guide sooner than later. And using a sanding grade that is too fine will burn time that you can’t afford to lose. A grit that is too coarse may remove more material than desired and ruin the wood. Starting with the wrong sandpaper grit can add hours to your woodworking project.
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